Today we landed in Jamaica...our first time on this island. When I get home I need to add it to my country list. Unlike yesterday's tour, we had a good tour today. We drove from Falmouth to Montego Bay and back. The drive was the perfect size...not too long to tire you out and not too short to make it worthless. We had an excellent guide, Marjie, and a very agressive mini-bus driver. Since this colony was settled by the British, the folks drive on the a "wrong side" of the road, and that fact always makes the traffic seem worse than it really is. Nevertheless, Chris, our driver, manuevered us thru the crowded two lane streets of Falmouth on a market day to the downtown of Montego Bay where the "locals" shop. In between we were on four lane divided highway that had a few potholes here and there which he deftly avoided. What follows are some musings from that 3 hour adventure.
Churches
We saw the oldest church on the island, an Anglican church from 1783. It was originally built for 300 parishioners and quickly became too small, so it was increased to hold 1000. So it's not only the oldest church on the island, it's the largest. There are a lot of churches in Jamaica. According to our guide, there's a church for every 12 people. I did not see that many, but the few that I did see did not serve "typical" religions like Catholic, Presbyterian, etc.
Housing
Ordinary people live in small single story cement homes that have rebar coming out of the roof, with the idea that someday they will build the second story. The houses are built to withstand hurricanes, but the last big hurricane to hit Jamaica was in 2005 and his name was Ivan! In the intervening 11 years, the damage has been repaired and more and more homes are built out of cement. The houses are painted every color of the rainbow and then some. Jamaicans like color. It's a Christmas tradition to "spiff up" your house, so folks repaint this time of year. They might have enough money to paint only one wall or one part of a wall, but that's all right. That part will be fresh and clean. As they have the money to paint more, they will. Some houses are partially painted every year, so there will be a green patch of color from one year; a yellow for another; a blue from another; and white from yet another. There's nothing wrong with this. The house has been totally repainted in 4 years with 4 different colors. As Marjie said, "Color is good."
There are few plantation houses left over from the old days. These have been restored and are tourist attractions. A Jamaican Planter lived very well with many servants and lots of land. No one lives in the remaining large plantation houses today.
Then there are the houses of the rich. They don't live in Jamaica full time but have a nice home to go to when they are on island. We saw two neighborhoods of this type of spread. Again, they are made of brick and block with cement roofs, but they are large, exquisite homes. Every house on the island, no matter the size has a fence. Some of the fences have spikes, some have barbed wire, some just have fences. Everyone knows their property line and I'm guessing everyone knows not to cross the line.
Hotels and Resorts
There are a number of hotels and resorts on the way to Montego Bay. Our guide said that some new resorts were being funded by Spanish money. I asked if that was money from Spain or from the drug cartels in Mexico and she indicated she did not know...but she implied it was probably from the cartels. The resorts are little communities that folks never have to leave. Fly to Jamaica, get the limo from the resort you are staying at, and enjoy your time on the beach. There are shops in each resort as well a entertainment. It's all self-contained. To that end, you don't see too many tourists wandering in the streets, as they are at the resorts.
The only place we saw tourists on the economy was at the "Hip Strip" in Montego Bay. Here you wander from shop to club to restaurant to shop carrying your margarita from one place the other. We saw a few happy people strolling from Margaritaville to The Diamond Intrernational Store and beyond.
Our guide said there were 6 Sandals resorts on the island...we saw one of them. It was rather nondescript on the outside, but when I peeked in thru the gate, it looked pretty plush.
Flora and Fauna
Lots and lots of "tropical" trees grow here including 40 types of mangoes, breadfruit, banana and ackee. Ackee is the national tree of the island. It has an orange color fruit that opens when it is ripe. We were warned don't eat ackee unless it is opened as it will poison you!
The only animals I saw were goats. They are raised for food. Our guide said they also raise pigs and cattle and chickens. She said there were snakes on the island, but none were poisonous. I did see a lot of butterflies.
License Plates
As you know, I collect license plates from around the world. I needed to have one from Jamaica. I noticed plates came in four colors: red for taxis and tourist transportation; white for personal or general vehicles; green for commercial vehicles and yellow for government vehicles. I saw a few green and yellow plates, but there were a lot of white and red ones. The plates do not identify the island nor the parish of residence. Again, our guide said they used to, but it became to difficult.
Governmental Units
The island is divided into Parishes and Counties. A Parish is like a state, and there are 3 of them. There are 14 counties, and they are similar to counties in the US. I cannot remember the dimensions of the island, but it can be driven around in one day. Marjie said it takes 6 weeks to see all the attractions of the island. I asked her if she had seen them all and she said no, but our driver said yes he had.
Minimum wage is equivalent to $55 a week; and a good wage is between $70-80/week. That's not a lot of money, at about $3000 to $4200/year. There's a 17% unemployment rate and there is no welfare. If you don't have a job you have to find a way to make some money as the government will not support you. Marjie said a lot of the unemployed open their own small business selling phone cards or washing windows or make meals for a restaurant. She said everyone has to hold their own. We asked if there were a lot of homeless folks and she replied there were some but not where we were going.
Fast Food and other stores.
I saw three fast food chains: KFC, Pizza Hut and Burger King. McDonald's, aka as The American Embassy," is not on the island any more. Jamaica has a rule that you have to use local products, and McDonald's wanted to ship all their food in from the US. Jamaica stuck to it's guns, and Ronald McDonald is not here. In addition, there are no Walmarts or Home Depots. Lots of "mom and pop" stores that cater to a specific neighborhood.
Falmouth
We landed at a cruiseport that was built by Royal Caribbean. It was shiny and clean and filled with the typical shops you find at a cruiseport in the Caribbean. The big diamond stores are there, as is Del Sol (they are at every port...want to buy a purse that changes color when it gets in the sun, go to Del Sol) and a few local merchants who are lucky enough to have a kiosk. The cruiseport is NOT Jamaica. It's the generic cruiseport you see in the Caribbean. Before we went on our tour, I asked one of the guides if it was typical of Jamaica and she said there was hardly any relationship between the cruiseport and the island. She said this is not where you are going to find out what Jamaica is like. After going on my little tour she was correct. The cruiseport is an isolated sanctuary, much like Labadee was in Haiti.
I had a good day. When I get to a place where I can upload pictures, I will. In the meantime, keep coming back as you never know when the pictures will appear.